I had just dropped a family member off at LaGuardia Airport and was driving home to New Jersey. It was lunchtime, and I decided I could find a more interesting meal in Queens -- where I had never dined before -- than if I returned to my hometown. I randomly selected an exit off the Brooklyn-Queens Expressway, pulled into a parking space, and used my phone's web browser to search for restaurants on Yelp. I discovered that I was in the Woodside neighborhood, and that Filipino and Thai restaurants were prevalent there. I selected a Filipino place a few blocks from where I happened to park.
That's how I ended up at Papa's Kitchen. Here's a picture of the exterior, and the view looking westward on Woodside Avenue.
It was around 12:30 PM on a Saturday, and the sign in the front window said "open," but I didn't see any customers inside. I was about to walk away when a woman asked me to come in. At first she said they wouldn't be open until 3:00 or 4:00. However, when I asked if she could recommend any other restaurant nearby, she insisted that Papa's Kitchen would open early for me. I protested briefly, not wanting to put the staff to any trouble, but she said it would be no problem.
I soon learned that my kind hostess's name was Beth (I hope I'm spelling that correctly), and that the gentleman preparing food in the kitchen area behind the counter was Miguel. Then my second point of confusion arose. Beth said the restaurant could prepare a dish of vegetables, with a slightly spicy coconut milk sauce, for me. She did briefly show me a printed menu, but didn't give me any time to study it or suggest that I could choose from it. I assumed that, because the restaurant had opened early, most dishes weren't available at the moment, and I accepted her suggestion. A few minutes later, though, a couple entered. They clearly knew Beth. Although she mentioned that they should have called ahead, she seated them, offered menus, and allowed them to choose what they wanted to eat. Interesting!
Anyway, my food soon arrived. I found out that the dish was called laing. It was mostly a stewed, shredded green vegetable that reminded me of collard greens. There were also some thin slices of a crunchier, tan vegetable, and a few bits of meat -- I don't know what type. The sauce was indeed coconut-based and moderately spiced. The meal was accompanied by steamed white rice. When I asked Beth about the green vegetable, she said it was taro leaves. Here's a photo:
I don't know if this recipe is very similar to what I had at Papa's Kitchen, but it will give you the idea. The recipe offers some advice, which suggests that expert knowledge is required when working with taro leaves:
Do not stir the ingredients while cooking so that itchiness of the taro will not spread on the dish, otherwise it will cause an itching sensation in your tongue when eating this cuisine.
Raw taro, like some other vegetables, apparently contains calcium oxalate, which can be toxic and is minimized by proper preparation.
I can't say that laing is the most delicious thing I've ever eaten, but I enjoyed it, and it didn't make my tongue itch. I found it very filling, perhaps because of the high fat content of coconut milk. Even though I didn't finish the whole serving, I still wasn't hungry six hours later. It did leave me hungry to try more Filipino cuisine the next time I get the chance.


Flushing and Woodside are the best havens in NYC for the greatest choice of Asian cuisines if you want authentic and reasonable. Plus there are shops in these neighborhoods where you can buy many of the specialized ingredients needed to prepare these dishes yourself. Things will not be labeled in English, so try to find a younger store clerk who speaks English to guide you. Otherwise, like me, you have to guess by looking!
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